PPB October 2021

ancient Egypt toting bags around their waists. But for women, bags became a symbol of independence and security. In the 17th century, the development of “tie-on” pockets was a defining moment for women, providing an extremely popular detachable accessory for carrying possessions, similar to the function of handbags today. While European men's garments, starting in the Renaissance, had numerous pockets sewed into coats, jackets, waistcoats and breeches, women’s clothing did not. Tie- on pockets were large, highly practical options for mobile women, giving them both flexibility and convenience. Even when different types of bags and “male-style” pockets became available for women’s apparel, the tie-on pocket remained enduringly popular and consistent in its design. While handbags have evolved into elaborate fashion statements, consumers are still looking for functionality first. In 2020, The Wall Street Journal wrote that in the COVID-19 era, purses are out and fanny packs are in. Hands-free and casual, the fanny pack offers the convenience and comfort that bulky, expensive handbags can’t. In recent years, backpacks and fanny/waist/ chest packs have continued to stand out in the bag category for the function and ease they provide, according to the NPD Group. But just when the fashion “it” bag was declared a thing of the past, it made an unexpected comeback. According to Town & Country magazine, in November 2020, a rare Himalaya Kelly handbag sold for $437,000 at a Christie’s auction in Hong Kong—the highest price ever paid for a bag sold at auction. According to Business Wire , brands such as Hermes, Dior and Prada are also seeing a spike in resale demand, proving that well- crafted styles with traditional detailing can withstand the test of time. With so many styles, functions and designs, distributors can include a bag Totes Not Ok? Reusable cotton tote bags were once the chic, eco-friendly alternative to plastic bags. But now, one type of these uber-popular carry-alls have reportedly created an unintended environmental concern of their own. According to Yahoo! Finance, ever since British designer Anya Hindmarch popularized the reusable cotton bag with her “I’m Not A Plastic Bag” tote in 2007, consumers everywhere have been ditching single-use bags for the cotton tote. As consumers embraced the tote as a stylish, green solution, brands and major retailers caught onto the cotton wave, using these bags to show their commitment to reducing single- use plastics. Now a major branding tool, consumers can get a (sometimes free) cotton tote nearly anywhere, from their local coffee shop to major cosmetic companies. Since 2014, New Yorker magazine has gifted over two million iconic cream-and-black totes to subscribers, turning the bag into a status symbol. Although the pandemic briefly discouraged cotton totes, fearing that reusable bags could harbor the virus, these beloved bags are back. However, while the bags appear to be an environmental solution, a potentially flawed 2018 study by the Ministry of Environment and Food of Denmark found that an organic cotton tote needs to be used 20,000 times to offset its overall impact of production. Some consider the study flawed because it only considers the effect on the ozone, not on water or air quality, climate or wildlife. Cotton production is also extremely water-intensive and is sometimes linked to the forced labor of Uyghurs in Xinjiang, China, a region that produces 20 percent of the world’s cotton and supplies most Western fashion brands. Because they are often printed with PVC-based inks, cotton tote bags are not easily recycled. Only 15 percent of the 30 million tons of cotton produced every year actually makes its way to textile depositories and printed patterns must be cut out of the cloth, losing about 10 to 15 percent of the cotton. Even so, when comparing cotton to plastic, cotton continues to have an environmental edge. While cotton uses pesticides (if not organically grown), lightweight plastic bags use greenhouse gas-emitting fossil fuels, will never biodegrade and can clog up the oceans when discarded. Conversely, quality cotton totes can be repurposed and passed along innumerable times, thus getting unlimited use from the bag and maximizing the number of brand impressions. Still, the global effort to replace single-use plastic bags with reusable cotton totes has redefined what “eco-friendly” means and proven that anything in excess is not good. | OCTOBER 2021 | 51 GROW